What’s powder-fresh in New Hampshire’s sexy White Mountains
Quaint inns, invigorating snowy trails and rustic après-ski haunts that never seem to change have made New Hampshire’s aptly named White Mountains, in the far north of the Granite State, a favorite family-holiday spot for generations. But this snow season, the region is celebrating a once-in-a-generation glow up.
This winter, the queen of the Whites, the Omni Mount Washington Resort, toasts the 50th anniversary of its Bretton Woods ski area, New Hampshire’s largest winter sports resort.
Another anniversary this year sees the White Mountain Nordic Association turning 40. Its network of almost 250 miles of challenging cross-country ski terrain runs across six Nordic skiing centers, comprising Bear Notch Ski Touring, Great Glen Trails, Jackson Ski Touring Foundation, the Mt. Washington Valley Ski Touring and Snowshoe Center, Purity Spring Resort XC and Snowshoe Reserve, and Bretton Woods Nordic Ski Center (part of Bretton Woods Ski Area).
Bretton Woods celebrates with the wow-est new on-slope dining option in the range: the Rosebrook Lodge. The three-tiered, 16,000-square-foot space way up at the Mount Rosebrook summit is accessed by New Hampshire’s first eight-passenger gondola, the Bretton Woods Skyway. It offers breathtaking views of the Presidential Range mountains down to the Omni Mount Washington Resort below. Relax with a meal at the lodge’s Switchback Grille.
A gleaming white Italianate palace, Omni Mount Washington Resort is offering fresh room choices, too. Choose historic bedrooms dating to its opening in 1902, or from a suite of modern pads in the newly built Presidential Wing. The latest rooms have opulent bathrooms with egg-shaped soaking tubs and spacious separate showers.
The hotel has redone the octagonal main dining room, adding a white-marble-topped 18-foot square bar and a fireplace. Still, it’s the original, jaw-dropping Gilded Age great hall, all aglow with holiday decorations, that sets the perfect winter scene (from $399 per night).
A 30-minute drive north from Bretton Woods and you’re almost in Canada, but stay on this side of the border and check out the Mountain View Grand Resort & Spa in Whitefield.
This venerable property dates to 1865 and has completed a thorough rethink — brightening its lobby lounge, refreshing its rooms and updating its Harvest Tavern restaurant and bar. After a day enjoying the on-site ice skating, cross-country skiing and snow-shoeing — or a relaxing massage in the Tower Spa — dress up for a wine pairing menu in the elegant 1865 Wine Cellar, surrounded by a curated Wine Spectator-approved collection (from $300 per night).
For a family photo you won’t forget, take the Mt. Washington SnowCoach up the privately owned Mt. Washington Auto Road from Great Glen Trails in Gorham. (Due to bitterly cold temperatures, the vehicle only goes halfway in winter.)
From there, XC fanatics can hit the Great Glen Trails and check in to the Glen House. This sustainably built modern inn has mountain view dining in the Notch Grille and fire pits on the terrace (from $168).
The new stewards at the Wentworth Inn in Jackson — possibly the cutest snow village ever, entered from Route 16 via a historic covered bridge — have also given this cherished romantic retreat a classy reno.
Already much loved for its hot tub suites (separate hot tub cabins with TVs and snowscape views from windows framed by icicles), the 1869-built inn now has a modern-rustic look with warm, woody elements.
The hotel’s fine-dining venue, the 1869 Room, offers a spot to unwind over dinner, while its Alpine bar boasts the largest selection of specialty bourbons and whiskeys in the area (from $159 per night).
Nearby, the 1800s-built Inn at Thorn Hill has new owners, too. Things are moving quickly there: Its Forty Below Lounge and Wine Cellar just received Wine Spectator’s badge of excellence (from $150 per night).
The White Mountain Hotel & Resort, located in quiet Hale’s Location off the White Mountain Highway in North Conway, recently renovated its spacious fireplace rooms and its Ledges Restaurant, which likewise boasts a Wine Spectator nod and is now helmed by Executive Chef Ali A. Gonzalez (from $169 per night).
For a seamless shower-to-slopes stay, the new Fairfield by Marriott at the wonderful 87-year-old Cranmore Mountain Resort includes nightly s’mores around the outdoor fire pits (from $169 per night).
For the Whites’ growing après-ski scene, check out Jackson’s notable Thompson House Eatery. New England chef Jeff Fournier took over the venue, creating a seasonal, hyperlocal fine dining and a drinking bolt hole beloved by locals.
Grab New England quaint while you still can.