Inside a new $1.2B London hotel where Churchill won the war

In a city that’s almost 2,000 years old, you might expect to see buildings reused, recycled and reinvented, and buzzy new hotels are top among them.

The Ned, in the financial district of Bank, used to be (you guessed) a bank; the former staid offices now boast 10 restaurants including flamboyant foyer dining and entertainment (think cruise ship.)

Manhattan outpost NoMad in Covent Garden with its focal atrium dining was once a magistrates’ court, with grim holding cells that hosted Oscar Wilde and the suffragettes.

Yet perhaps the most ambitious refit is Raffles London at the OWO (which stands for Old War Office, its name initialized because, well, no one wants “war” in their moniker.)

If you want history in your hotel, you’ve got it here. Edward I first pitched up on the site in the 13th century, followed by various monarchs including Henry VIII, who died here.

But its biggest claim to fame is as Britain’s army HQ through the turbulent years of 1906 until its decommission in 1964.

As the nerve center of World War II, prime minister Sir Winston Churchill’s presence is practically palpable within the wide, hallowed halls and wainscot walls.

After the army chaps left, the vacant War Office picked up the “Old” in its name and promptly lived up to it, falling into serious disrepair. The Hinduja Group snapped up a 250 year lease in 2016, after parting with $460 million.

Two years later, legendary Singapore brand Raffles stepped in as the hotel operator.

The architects, EPR, had to meticulously maintain the trapezium-shaped Grade II listed structure while crafting an expansive luxury hotel and 85 private residences. Retrofitting was extensive, but came with some joys, like the discovery of previously unknown mosaic floors under the dusty carpets. Renovation costs are estimated to be around $1.2 billion.

Thierry Despont was brought in to oversee the interior design. “Our objective was to preserve and enhance the DNA of the Old War Office Building while creating a 21st century luxury palace hotel,” he said.

Objective achieved. Opening in September 2023, the 120 bedrooms and suites echo their past in grand fashion. Arrival is classy – pull up in the cobbled courtyard, or walk through the main entrance to be greeted by a grand sweeping staircase.

Upstairs, five heritage suites, once the domains of leading politicians and military folk, offer neo-classical apartment living with rich wood paneling, antique fireplaces and lush bathrooms. A stay in the Lord Haldane Suite, Churchill’s office during WWII, will indulge your statesman dreams with soaring windows and red velvet sofas. Go to the top of the duplex Turret Suite for views over Whitehall, including the stoic mounted horse guards from the household cavalry stationed across the street.

Eight spacious corner suites offer expansive accommodations and are named after notable women who worked here, including Christian Lamb who mapped the D-Day landings. Now a very spritely 104, she finally saw the Normandy beaches for the first time at this year’s D-Day 80th anniversary commemoration, where French president Emmanuel Macron presented her with the Legion d’honneur order of merit.

While the heritage might be old, the fittings aren’t — gently dimming lights, sweeping curtains and multiple TVs are all operated from your iPad, as is the very prompt butler service – although spending time in the room may come second to relaxing in the enormous basement pool. Some 80 feet was dug out to accommodate it, along with the calming Guerlain spa which spans four floors.

Dining is also top-notch, thanks to three restaurants under the helm of Argentinian chef Mauro Colagreco, he of the three Michelin stars. Colagreco aims to bring “British terroir to the table with both humility and passion” according to the blurb. Certainly, the cuisine is delicious — fresh, flavorful and all local, sourcing British produce that’s reflective of seasonality.

And if, by now, you’re looking for a classy cocktail to live out your James Bond fantasies, you’re in luck. Bond creator Ian Fleming worked here as “Churchill’s Spymaster” and MI5 and MI6 were both housed in the building, accessed through an inconspicuous door still known as the spies’ entrance. As a pivotal character in the Bond genre, the OWO building has also had its close ups in the movies over the years, from “Octopussy” in 1983 through 2015’s “Spectre.”

You can enjoy a tipple in the leather seats of the comfy Horse Guards bar and lounge, including the hotel’s signature London Sling (Sipsmith Raffles 1915 gin, strawberry and oat, sipello, linden tea and cherry bitters), but you might have more fun in the underground, hidden Spy Bar. Accessed by appointment, you’ll be escorted to underground rooms once used by MI5 (we’re told that the number above the secret door, 007, is purely coincidental, but surely not?)

The decor has big hints to Bond — not least of which is the Aston Martin embedded behind the bar – and is pleasingly dark and retro. Cocktails are innovative and varied, although you can’t go wrong with the classic Vesper martini.

And no photos allowed. This OWO treat is for your eyes only.

Rates start at $1,179 per night.